Did I choose the wrong film?

When I drove home from work today, I noticed that the contrast between the December darkness and the artificial light from lamp-posts, lit buildings and petrol stations actually would make very nice images indeed. I thought about going for long exposures with either Tri-X or HP5 plus, and I composed some nice images in my head. My chosen subject, Skibladnerhuset.

Skibladner is an old paddle steamer the people who lives around the lake Mjøsa are very proud of. It is currently the oldest paddle steamer in scheduled traffic, and it will sail on the lake in the summer months. When the winter comes, it will be parked on display in its own, specifically designed house. A special building with I find to look incredible with its triangles and diagonal pillars and poles. The house was drawn by the architects at Kontur in Gjøvik and was built in 2001. It has become a landmark for Gjøvik and is visible from RV4 as you drive through the town.

I chose to roll up the Zenza Bronica ETR with a roll of JCH Streetpan 400, and test out how an extremely contrasty film would deal with the lighting conditions in a Norwegian December afternoon. In retrospect, this might have been the wrong film for this outing, I should have gone for Tri-X og HP5 plus.

Reklamer

First of all, I could not find any information about the reciprocity features and long exposure compensation anywhere. Therefore, I went for combining the information from the Ilford HP5 plus and Kodak Tri-X. This means compensation from 1 second and more. My logic became – If the meter gives me 1 second, I’ll shoot 2 seconds, if it gives me 2s, I’ll go for 4. It could seem; however, that this was not anywhere near enough compensation.

Marina light – Zenza Bronica ETR w 50mm Zenzanon f2,8 – JCH Streetpan 400@400 1 second at f8

My negatives got very thin, so thin, that I wouldn’t imagine printing them in the darkroom. Three negatives came out reasonably OK, and showed the contrast level I was aiming for, however, the other 12, not so much.

I developed the film in Xtol stock, both because I have a batch of Xtol that is about to go out and I want to use it, and because I just did not «love» the prospect of doing development for 17 minutes with 30s agitation frequency. Call me lazy, but this is who I am.

I also considered using Rodinal 1+100 and do Semi-Stand development, but I wanted a more specific development cycle that I knew would give me the correct film-speed. And with Rodinal at that dilution and development times of an hour plus, I don’t really get that level of control.

This was just an experiment and a shot in the dark (pun intended), but I learnt quite a bit about the Streetpan 400, and when not to use it. I might do a reshoot of this outing with a roll of Tri-X at some point, to pay the amazing architecture the respect it deserves.

Please enjoy the images.

JCH Streetpan 400 for portraits?

A little while ago, I was given a roll of 120mm film from Japan Camera Hunter named the «Streetpan 400». I tried it out and got beautiful results with high contrasts and exquisitely fine grain for a 400 iso film. The deep contrasts got me thinking. How would this film work for portraiture?

I bought a few rolls directly from JCH in Japan, and due to the Covid 19 situation it took a while for them to arrive. When it finally came I put a roll in my Zeiss Ikon Ikoflex, cheap TLR, and decided to bring it to take some portraits with Ada. We met at Kremmerodden, a lovely location in Norway and took some pictures.

The Zeiss Ikon Ikoflex, with a roll of JCH Street Pan 400

I decided to shoot the film at 200 and develop a bit shorter (pull processing) in order to retain some shadow detail. This film is widely discussed online for its ink-black shadows and high contrast, and for portraits in direct sunlight, this was not my biggest wish.

I will not go deep into anything technical about this film, I am no expert on emulsions and films, and there are millions of reviews and opinions about it available online.

I was very uncertain about how this film would handle being pulled a stop, but I am happy to report that it deals well with one stop over exposure.

My process was:

  • One minute presoak in water to remove the anti-halation layer. This water comes out nearly black.
  • Development in Kodak Xtol 1+1. Development time for this film at 400 is 17 minutes. Since I pulled it one stop, I reduced the development time by 20% and a total development time at 13 minutes 40 seconds with agitation every minute.
  • Water-stop and fix as usual
  • 15 minutes under running water for wash.
  • Final wash with Photoflo

I am happy with the results. What you see here are scanned negatives that have been merged and somewhat cleaned in Photoshop. I will take some of these negatives to the darkroom for printing there later.

Do I like this film for portraits? Yes. I would use this film again for portraits and pull it to 200 for certain portraits. Especially portraits where I want to retain some contrast and get a nice palette of grey. However, for portraits at this location, I’ll probably stick with Ilford FP4 box speed or Kodak Tri-X at 200.

Thanks for reading

“The camera is an instrument that teaches people how to see without a camera.” 

Dorothea Lange